THE BAG LADY OF THESSALONIKI!! UP TO MY OLD HOBBIES IN GREECE!! Dumpster Diving with the Gypsies!!

My Gypsy companions earlier in the day

When I got back into the apartment loaded up with purses!!

You will not believe this!! Last night we were on the balcony and looking down at the dumpster. There were Gypsy's in it because a shop was being gutted next door and they were throwing tons of things away.

Anyway, I saw this white little purse in the dumpster from 4 floors up and decided to go down and take a look. I came back with over 15 brand new purses!!!!!!! The Gypsy in the dumpster kept handing them over to me, it was hysterical! Tonight we are going to have a 'Farewell Purse Party'!!!! I leave for Rome tomorrow...

I will never be able to stand waste of any kind!! Purses for Everybody!!

Eliza's Beauty Salon in Thessaloniki

My new friends Karen and Julia

Eliza and I after my new hair cut

We stoppped by our friend Eliza's salon yesterday. It was very nice. Eliza is such a kind and gentle spirit, you would love her. Her energy is like a sweet flower. She does not speak english, but she gestured that she wanted to cut my hair as a gift. She did a BEAUTIFUL job. I am all spiffed up for Rome!! She also gave me another gift, a beautiful scarf that I have on in the picture.

If you are in Thessaloniki, you must have this woman cut your hair, it will look great and also be a spiritual experience.

Her shop is called ENIZA, Kannaaokiae 81, K. Toymna THa. ria Panteboy: 2310 930147 (phone)

After that we all went out and met Karen and Julia, from the UK who have adopted Greece as their home. The teach English and have both been here over 20 years. They both use puplic transportation to be 'green'. The are thinking of opening a coffee shop with books to lend and possibly volunteers to teach those less fortunate English!! I hope they do. I said I would come back and help!

ELIZA'S RATING

COMMUNITY * * * * *

Food Waste Reduction - unrated

LUNCH AT SAKI'S PLACE IN PIREA

Saki's Place

Fried squash with Tasiki sauce

Grilled octopus and greek salad with fresh lemons and Ouzo

Mariana looking gorgeous by the sea

If you ever visit Thessaloniki, you should try to take a little ride over to Pirea. You can sit by the shore at Saki's Place ( Saki is actually there and knows English!) and eat and look over at Thessaloniki. We ordered octopus, grilled salad, calamari, and fried squash to share..... As we sat right on the shore the tide came right up to our shoes.

The food was excellent!! Unfortuantely I discovered in Greece ( at least the big cities) it is thought to be low class to take any food home. And Greeks tend to over order and just leave the food there to be thrown away when they leave. I was shocked!! They will occassionally take some bones for their dog.

I remember years ago when you would go to a restaurant and ask for a 'doggie' bag and it would have a little picture of the dog on it and everything. I was a little girl. I do not recall what made the shift in America to take out boxes. I will have to ask my mother what she thinks tonight when we talk.

I told Mariana we were not going to leave all this food and she descretely went to the kitchen and asked for something to put the things in. We had enough to eat two more meals!! I even took the mini bottle of Ouzo we bought, it was 3/4 full and we had the cap. Normally that is left too!

SAKI's Place and the Pirea Community

COMMUNITY * * * * * ( very friendly )

FOOD WASTE REDUCTION * ( for all of Greece in Restuarants) very sad

Eating Goat for the first time in Potidia

Vangelis grilling the goat

Mariana, Eliza and husband Vangelis

Our Feast, the goat and eggplant were to die for!! This eggplant dish will be in our new cookbook!

Saturday after the wedding we continued to Potidia where we had dinner at Eliza and Vangelis's house on the coast. We feasted on grilled goat, meat patties,stuffed chicken with red pepper, roasted eggplant salad, salad, baked potatoes, grilled pita bread, roasted hot peppers and sweets!! Plus Greek wine..The goat was extremely tastey and I highly suggest trying it!

Town of Potidia Rating

COMMUNITY * * * * * ( very warm and loving evening and town)

Food Waste Reduction * * * * * ( We ate everything!!)

My Big Fat Greek Wedding!!

Our Groom waiting for his Bride

The Church being decorated before the wedding

Saturday Mariana and I drove out to the coast to visit friends and stopped first at a little village called Therita. I noticed that two women were decorating the very small church we went into and that there were people startng to gather outside. On our way back there were more people and I remembered reading that in Italy everybody waits for the bride outside of the church. So I begged Mariana to stay so that I could see the bride arrive, even though we were a little late to our friends house. It turned out to be one of the highlights of my trip!!

Mariana said it is the same in Greece and in fact the Groom stands outside of the church waiting for his bride, and when she arrives it is typical for the car carrying the bride to pass him by 2-3 times before finally delivering her!! The bride is also picked up by her godfather and delivered to the church. She has to leave the house barefoot and he puts her shoes on for her for good luck. He also has to pay her ( a token amount) so the bride will pretend that the shoe is not going on right and he will stuff money in there to make it fit. They will also break some sort of Easter bread for luck over her head, but I am not completely sure about this.

The bride must also exit the car with her right foot, so the couple will start off their marriage good and she must step forward with her right foot when she is handed over to her groom and the enter into the church. She also writes the names of all of her unmarried friends on the bottom of her shoe ( shoes?, i guess this depends on how many friends she has!!) and the first name to be erased off the shoe throughout the wedding and reception will be married next!!

So here are some pictures and two videos that I took, I hope you enjoy it as much as I did!! Sorry I cannot figure out how to load the videos yet!!! Stay tuned if I can get them on they are very exciting!! There is a moment where you can see a procession in the distance and it looked like many people were walking with the bride to the church, but it was just the flower girls, still very moving!! What an experience!!

Town of Therita Rating

Community * * * * *

Food Waste Reduction unrated

HUGE MARKET IN THESSALONIKI

A few of the crowded local market

The carrots from my story

Yannis, the generous farmer "Everybody Eats If you look closely you can see the man with the cart I was talking about in the white T shirt

THe fish section of the market, must of been 20 booths

After I got home, I bit into the best apple I have had since childhood!!

Today we went to a huge farmers/flea market. There were many roads blocked off and lots of stuff. When we first walked in there was a pile of clothes just heaped on a table all for 1 EUR. My friend Mariana said they were being sold by the Gypsys. I bought 3 tops!!!

There were many produce booths, herbs, fish, pasta, household products, and even may booths with fabric that will make you drapes. You just give them a down payment and pick them up nest week.

We bought red peppers, lettuce, parsley, lemons, scallions,an asparagus fern,apples, and I was able to find a purple sweater for the upcoming cold months in Rome.

As we were walking along, one man was packing up his booth very early, out of everything but a few carrots. The carrots looked very good so we asked him how much for the 3 or 4 we wanted and he said "Free, Free"!!!! I am noticing that the Greeks are very generous with their food. ( Remember the Fig Lady in Knosos??!!) Oh yes, I also saw a perhaps homeless man pushing his cart going around to all the booths. I noticed he had a pack of hamberger and some shirts in his posession. Mariana says it is very common for the venders to give people in their commuity their leftovers and things to help out. I am told that the churches here take on most of the responsability of feeding thise in need, but I will have to find our more.

Everybody was friendly and in a festive mood. I was ready to turn the corner and see the Gypsy cart with horses! I am told that this market travels to a different neighborhood every day of the week in Thessaloniki.

Thessaloniki Street Market

Community Rating * * * * *

FOOD WASTE REDUCTION * * * * *

Life in Thessaloniki, Greece

Mariana, me, Chris, Fenya, and Litza last night at Litza's coffee shop,Arte

One of the complimentary snacks at Leetza's Cafe , ARTE

A mosaic table that Litza made

Litza and Denise at her coffee shop

As you might remember I ran into my long time highschool friend, Mariana at the JFK airport 11 September. Now here I am visiting with her in Thessaloniki. I also know Litza, who owns a wonderful coffee shop, called Arte, and Fenya( Mariana's daughter) and Chris Boyanides

Thessaloniki, which is named after Alexander the Great's sister and means mermaid is a wonderful community. You will see people walking around, sitting out in one of the many cafes or just stopping to chat with each other. The city is clean, safe and friendly.

Last night I saw Litza for the first time in 7 or 8 years and went to her coffee shop for the first time. Litza is an artist and a very loving person. She certainly enjoys all of her customers and considers them her friends. Her place, called Arte, has a very warm and inviting atmosphere. She serves coffees and alcoholic drinks and provids free snacks which are healthy and delicious.

Up to Oia, Santorini to watch the sunset every tour books says not to miss!!

Everybody stopping to watch the sun sink, even the staff

The sunset 19 September, 2010 Oia, Santorini

My friend Laurie wanted to see this sunset in Oia so we took the bus up there after shopping in Fira. Now I know what a herd of cattle feels like as we climbed up the winding steps to the western side of Oia to wait for the sunset. There are a lot of very nice shops along the narrow street that leads upward.

When we got to the top, sat at a restaurant table with a good view of the awaited moment we were told we could not stay unless we were going to order dinner! So we decided to, but had drinks first etc.. so we would not be rushed out before sunset!! It is a beautiful view. Would my life have been complete without it...yes of course. But my life would not be complete without my friend Laurie in it so I am glad we went!!!

I did think it was interesting that even though the staff at our restaurant has probably seen the sunset over 1,000 times, everybody stopped for that moment when it finally sank into the horizen. I was touched. And again a second later when the crowd broke out into spontaneous applause for the event. That touched my heart and I will be able to carry that moment with me forever. So maybe it was worth it...despite everything else.

I am sure many of you would like this island, nothing too bad to say about it, but I know my followers are looking for a deeper sense of community and connection along with their travel, so I would suggest not on this island.

OVERALL SANTORINI RATING

COMMUNITY * *

FOOD WASTE REDUCTION * * * *

Beating the streets in Fira, Santorini

Mesuem Fresco of Papyrus Flowers from Theran Culture

Dora, chef from the Olive Tree in Fira

Sophia's name day flowers

Evangelia and Matina at Drakkar boutique

I went to Fira and Oia yesterday, hoping to find another level of connection to Santorini and after I tried really hard, I felt a little something in Fira!!

There is a little designer shop called Drakkar, where we met Evangelia and Martina. We were in there 3 times within a few hours!!They have beautiful clothes and my friend Laurie bought a great Italian dress with a stunning belt! I chatted it up and asked for some water and was given a Coke light!! I ended up buying a beautiful Italian scarf that I really liked.

I showed them a picture of Dora, the cook at Olive Tree Taverna across from them, where they often get carry out. The food there was excellent! Service friendly too.

They had gotten flowers at Drakkar after we returned from lunch and I asked about them. It was Martina's sister 'name day', which is celebrated in Greece so she sent them over for the shop to enjoy.We also went to the museum which is small (cost 3 EUR) but really worth seeing. It is full of artifacts from the ancient Therans. I remembered so many of the things from studying History of Art at Ohio State University so it had extra meaning.

All of Fira is very touristy and full of small shops, some nice.

Fira, Santorini Rating

COMMUNITY * * * ( only this high because of Evangelia nad Martina)

Food Waste Reduction * * * * ( resonable size p0rtions)

SANTORINI

Kourus Village Cat

Fresh fish at Veggera

My Greek salad at Veggera

Very friendly Lauren at Kourus Village,Perissa

Santorini to me so far is like a beautiful person on the outside with no heart or soul on the inside! Although I am patient and trying to find a glimpse of the heart of Santorini. Everybody told my friend Laurie she had to come here because it was "so beautiful...."

I have been here 2 1/2 days ( an eternity) and there have been very slight bright spots. Lauren, the beautiful and friendly receptionist at the hotel is from the USA and used to live in Angel Fire, New Mexico which is about 15-20 minutes from where I used to live in Taos, New Mexico ( give or take a few)! She shared her views of living in this culture with me.

Another nice moment was going into a bakery because the donuts were so beautiful ( and HUGE!!)from the window and the owner giving us a little bread stick in friendship.

The food has been good at the hotel ( an incredible breakfast buffet) and at a local restaurant, Veggera. Small portions, minimal food waste. Healthy choices.

Oh yes, I am staying at the 4 star Kouros Village, which is beautiful and perfect in every way, but again it stops there. The cats don't interact with you here either!!

Otherwise, I have not found this island to be the "Community in the Road" experience I want to help my readers find..... Let's hope for better news later, I am going to Fira and Oia today.

SANTORINI RATING

COMMUNITY * *

FOOD WASTE REDUCTION * * * *

Leaving Crete, Aptera Beach Family for Santorini

Mylos ( on the left of course!)

Christos, loves to fish late at night

Carmen

Dimitri

Goodbye to all of the wonderful friends at Aptera Beach Hotel in Crete, I will miss everybody and hope to go back for a month next time like a lot of people do because it is just like family!!

I am off to Santorini.

Goodbye, Dimitri, our wonderful waiter, Carmen our cook, Christos ( the owner who I promise to get a picture of next time I go!!, he is really sweet) and Christos my friend from Athens who will move to Aptera Beach Hotel for a full year!! and to Klara( from Hungry, who might let me take her picture next time!!) And to Mylos ( the cat), who made me love him the most out of all the others! I hope the picture I put up of him captures his intense spirit....

CRETE AND APTERA BEACH HOTEL RATING

COMMUNITY * * * * * +

FOOD WASTE REDUCTION * * * * *

BEST TZATZIKI, DOLMATHES, AND SAGANAKI IN CRETE!!

If you go to Crete, you have to stay at the Aptera Beach Hotel for many reasons... The food is one of them. This is truly the best tzatziki and Domathes I have ever had!! The grape leaves on the Domathes were so tastey. ( I have eaten hundreds of samples all over the world and these are truly the best, so far!)

We shared all three of these dishes and of course they do not mind! Tomorrow I think I will eat the same thing!!

"EVERYBODY EATS" IN TOWN OF KNOSSOS, CRETE!!

Throne room at the Palace of Knossos

vessels at the Palace of Knossos

Palace of Knossos

The gifted fig

Fig woman

Today we travelled by bus to see the Palace of Knossos, the famous Minoan settlement. I was fascinate when I studied this civilization close to 30 some years ago at Ohio State so it was extra special to actually be able to go there.

On the way, we got off the bus about a mile too soon. I was a bit cranky about that, but started walking towards the area. We passed the very small town of Knossos and then this little old lady that was sitting at the front of her property under an arbor of grape leaves selling fresh figs for 3 EUR a kilo. I picked out a nice big fig and tried to ask her how much and she said FREE!!!! FREE!!! in her Greek accent. I tried to give her .20EUR coin at least but she refused. She wanted me to have it. I asked to take a picture of her and she agreed. I will never complain getting off at the wrong bus stop again ( I hope!) This was one of the most memorable moments of the whole trip so far.

The Palace of Knossos itself is a must see if you are a Minoan buff, if not I would spend an extra day at the beach!

COMMUNITY OF KNOSSOS RATING

COMMUNITY * * * * * ( due to the fig ambassador)

FOOD WASTE REDUCTION * * * * * ( same reason)

(based on a * - * * * * * star rating system)

ARRIVING IN CRETE and staying at the Aptera Beach Hotel

Niki, my first friend in Crete

Cristos, my second friend !

Our beach at Aptera Beach Hotel

A flower I saw as I walked from the bus to the hotel

Crete is wonderful. It is modern yet quaint. The people are very friendly. We landed at the airport and saved 25 EUR by taking the local bus #6 and getting off at Dolphin Bay and walking a short distance to Aptera Beach Hotel. I met my first friend on the bus, Niki who speaks English and Greek and is aspiring to learn French. She even acted as translator for me during the ride with some other passengers. I gave her my card so I hope she keeps in touch.

The hotel is right on a secluded beach and I HIGHLY recommend it. The price is very reasonable and the owner very accommodating and friendly. In fact everyone that I have met here so far comes for a month at a time every year. It like an extended family here. The hotel has its own bar and restaurant and beach tavern so you do not have to leave for anything. The rooms are clean and have balconies. Already I want to come back or never leave!!!

The food is very good here and they do not mind if you split meals or order one thing at a time so you won't waste food.

APTERA BEACH HOTEL RATING

COMMUNITY * * * * * due to the warm sense of family you feel

FOOD WASTE REDUCTION * * * * * they feed stray cats too!!

(based on a * - * * * * * star rating system)

EATING OUT IN THE ACROPOLIS AREA

Fruit cart in the Plaza/Flea Market area

Gallery cafe near the Acropolis

unch at the Gallery cafe beet salad and my Creten salad

Menu from the Evxapic

Outside view or the Evxapis, good food and service

All of the restaurants are geared for tourists close to the Acropolis, but they are not too expensive. Everyone I went to was good.The wait staff is paid a better wage so they work together for better service and do not dote over you.

The one thing that I found strange is that they great you with a basket of bread and olive dip and then you end up getting charged for it. Usually 1 EUR person!! I embarrassed my friend Laurie when I asked about the charge and then pushed a little about them not even ASKING if I wanted it in the first place!!! The fist restaurant that did this EVXAPIS, offered to take it off of the bill, but I just chalked it up to a cultural difference.

I would really recommend any of the restaurants. The menus are identical. They are laid back and even let the cats eat from your table.

The portions in Greece are good amounts but not too large to cause you to overeat or to waste food. Bravo!!

RESTAURANT RATING IN THE ACROPOLIS AREA

COMMUNITY unrated


FOOD WASTE REDUCTION * * * * *

(based on a * _ * * * * * star rating system)